中国男士美妆报告.pdf

MALE BEAUTY REPORT男士美妆WHY MALE BEAUTYIS CHINAS NEXTBRAND GROWTH STORYIn a 2011 interview with Global Entre-preneur magazine, AIR PARIS presi-dent Dimitri Katsachnias shared pre-diction that Men in Paris spent about 50 years moving from using cologne to accepting after shave, while in China it may only take one year . While the prediction proved prescient, the magnitude of the male beauty boom goes far beyond our predictions. Forget about after shave, Chinese men are enthusiastically embracing masks, serums and premium sunscreen. A new generation of beauty buyers is also catching up to Korea in adoption of color makeup products like BB cream or lipstick. Be it in terms of sales or behaviors, China is driving the de-velopment of the 122 billion USD global male beauty market.Data from Euromonitor shows the Chinese male beauty market growing at over double global average (13.5% vs 5.8%). In an intensely competitive beauty market, men represent an at-tractive growth opportunity for existing brands and also attract savvy entrepre-neurs eager to populate the market with new male only, digital native brands. From global behemoths like Channel to homegrown players like Martin, Chinese men s beauty enthu-siasm is lifting all boats.We believe that the rise of Chinese male beauty ranks amongst the most important macro trend we have en-countered in over 20 years of activity in the beauty scene. For this reason, we have compiled this in-depth report with the hope of bringing both clarity and perspective to the topic.This exercise meant navigating data, culture and creative. It revealed to us consumer behaviors and brand strate-gies whose sophistication far exceeded our initial assumptions. It also showed to the extent to which men are re-defin-ing the traditional industry playbook for brand creative, product innovation and brand experience design.We hope that this report will inspire you and trigger ideas to turn the potential of male beauty into tangible growth for your brand. For more information on how AIR PARIS can help your business, please visit airparisagencyChris KrakowskiManaging Director ChinaAIRPARISIntroductionSales of male makeup kits are up 401%. Such is the eye catching copy that is fea-tured front and center in one of Tmalls latest advertising campaigns meant to advertise the platform ahead of the 6/18 shopping festival.More remarkable than the figure though is the tone and composition of the ad. Instead of a polished model, the visual features an average looking man in a mundane setting applying his makeup in an un-glamorous way. What this creative choice communicates is that beyond its remarkable growth, male beauty and skincare is no longer the domain of a niche avant-garde. It has gone main-stream and in so doing is unleashing enor-mous opportunities for brand growth. From mass market digital native brands such as Martin to incumbent luxury beauty players such as Channel, the male beauty tide has the potential to lift all boats.02Tmall betting big on male beauty for 6/18. Source: Tmall03LAB Series is evolving its marketing playbook by work-ing with pro-gaming teams to convert the new generation of male beauty consumersWith its Boy de Chanel male makeup line, Chanel is amongst the first luxury brands to bet heavily on the male marketThe Rise Of Male BeautyCreates Opportunities For BrandsIn All Segments Of The MarketOne of the top selling brands on Tmall and JD, Martin马丁 represents a new breed of digital native, male only beauty brands offer-ing high value for moneyNEW BRAND DISRUPTIONINCUMBENT INNOVATIONLUXURY BRAND EXPANSIONSource: TaobaoSource: TaobaoSource: ChanelIt is our opinion that male beauty will be one of the most exciting growth stories of the coming years. The market pres-ents a perfect storm of pent-up spend-ing power, strong cultural underpin-nings and relatively open competitive landscape. It offers tremendous oppor-tunities for both established brands and newcomers alike to get in at the ground floor, help shape customer behaviors and gain a foothold in the market before it consolidates.Most fascinating about this market is its uncertainty: Which beauty rituals will become fully mainstream? How many men will cross over from skincare to makeup? Which brands will come out ahead? Which purchasing channelswill customers favor? What type of celebrities and ambassadors will they respond to? Which new product formats and ingredients will arise? To what extent are female best practices trans-posable to the male market? Etc Answering these questions means standing at the intersection of culture, product, branding and channel innova-tion. It is this approach that we adopt in this article, showing how beauty fits into a broader cultural evolution of masculinity, breaking down the new male beauty routine, mapping the male beauty path to purchase and identifying different archetypes of male beauty shoppers. Male Beauty Is No LongerThe Domain Of A Niche Avant Garde. It Has Gone Mainstream. 04The New Chinese ManTHE FUEL POWERING THE RISE OF THE MALEBEAUTY AND SKINCARE MARKETBig growth stories are always built on strong cultural foun-dations. Major shifts in norms and popular aspirations bring about new behaviors and new spending patterns. This is precisely what is happening at the moment as new definitions of masculinity and new lifestyle habits enter the mainstream and shape a new Chinese man . This new Chinese man is often embodied in the figure of the Little Fresh Meat (小鲜肉 ): fashionable, delicate, fresh faced men built on the template set by Korean boys bands. While this image carries some truth, it can also be misleading by reducing a complex cultural trend to a single extreme expression. Not all modern Chinese men aspire to become Little Fresh Meats but most converge on a number of behavioral and cultural trends. Little Fresh Meat: Kris Wu, Z.TAO, LU HAN, LAY Zhang. Source: btimeBREAKING DOWNTHE NEW CHINESE MANCultural environment shaped by traditional gender rolesStatus comes from economic successMen succeed through their hard workLow involvement consumerIdeal of male appearance: elegant, strong, matureMale makeup as a deviant phenomenon07Wu Xiubo. Source: Pinterest Deng Lun. Source: PinterestTRADITONAL MASCULINITY NEW MASCULINITY Cultural environment shaped by gender re-definitionStatus comes also from personality and cultureMen succeed also through their looks and personalityHigh involvement consumerIdeal of male appearance: soft, clean, youthfulMale makeup is fully accepted andcompatible with masculinity Passion for self-improvementMen represent a majority of the userbase of top knowledge appsDe Dao 得到MALE6o %MALE69%Zhi Hu 知乎08Modern Chinese men are passionate about self-improvement. They dedicate an increasing amount of their free time and discretionary income to the better-ment of their minds and body. More than an utilitarian pursuit, self-improvement is a life philosophy, an ethic of self-cultiva-tion and constant progress through good daily life habits. One dimension of the self-improvement quest is physical. It is projected in the rise of fitness in both traditional gym formats and new formats such as exer-cises classes, 24h gyms or in-home fitness. In 2018 alone, sales of sports bracelets by men on Tmall increased 122%. This not only reflects the increas-ing adoption of sport as a daily life habit but also shows that physical self-im-provement is closely linked to data tracking and body hacking, intersecting with a more traditional male interest in technology. Self-improvement is also intellectual and spiritual. Men represent a majority of the user base of top knowledge apps such as Zhihu (69% male) and De Dao (60% male). Within paid content, the top cate-gory by far is personal growth account-ing for nearly 50% of content and demonstrating once again modern Chi-nese mens commitment to on-going skill building and intellectual growth.o1.09Increased independence and involvementin consumption choicesBeauty products are making their way into popular male e-commerce platforms such as Yoho.Source: Yoho!Buy appCHAO: Zhihu s effort to create a maleequivalent of REDSource: CHAO appMeituan CEO Wang Xing once said that the hierarchy of most valuable consumer groups went: young women children middle aged women the elderly dogs men. This tradi-tional view reflected the difficulty of getting men involved in premium consumption beyond a limited set of categories like electronics. Put simply: men lacked the sort interests and hobbies that drive spending. This state of affairs is changing fast. From sports to music, fashion, travel and self-care; men are developing new passions and becom-ing more involved consumers. A sign of this change is the rise of male focused e-com-merce platforms. Du 毒 for instance started as an app offering appraisal services for rare sneakers. It has grown into a comprehensive e-commerce platform with a largely male audience and a GMV of over 10 billion RMB in 2018. Yoho有货 is another beneficiary of this wave of male spending and is posting 100% YOY growth rates. It is northeworthy for including a selection of male skincare prod-ucts alongside its more traditional sneakers and streetwear categories.Perhaps the ultimate proof of the power of this new male consumption culture can be found in the efforts by various players to create the male RED. The most ambitious step in this direction has been taken by Zhihu who just pushed a new app called CHAO which bills itself as the go to place for lifestyle tips and product reviews for young trendy men. o2